Northern Ride – Day 15

August 22nd
04:45-18:15

Iron Bridge On to Bradford PA
1020 kilometers

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Northern Ride – Day 14

August 21st
06:30-18:15

Ignace On to Iron Bridge On
914 kilometers

Starting Temp 19c

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Northern Ride – Day 13

August 20th
06:00-18:15

Whitewood SA to Ignace On
838 kilometers

I got up and packed up my gear. At 06:30 I was on the bike and on my way. I crossed into Manitoba. The roads were quite a bit worse. Lots of “black snakes”, where they tarred the road cracks rather than repaired the road. It made riding much more interesting because they are slicker and almost cause you to track them rather than go across.

As I approached Brandon I could see rain clouds ahead. The humidity was noticeable now as well. The main route went around Brandon and the alternate one went into Brandon but also pointed directly at the clouds. I went ahead and made the right turn anyway. Immediately the road turned into gravel. As I went under a railroad bridge I came up to the back of a line of cars waiting on a flagman. He waved me to the front of the pack (about 15 cars) and when I got there said that it’d keep me out of the dust cloud being at the end of the cars. I thanked him for being thoughtful. How cool.

When he waved us on I went into Brandon and stopped at a gas station. I filled up and watched the rain clouds. Since it was starting to sprinkle a bit I broke out my rain gear and neatly packed up the leathers and headed off to find the main road. I was hoping to ride in the rain gear for a while but the rain let up fairly quickly and I had to stop on one of the side roads and get out of the gear. It was hot.

I got on and headed out to Winnipeg. The wind started picking up almost immediately and in come cases was quite strong. One thing that started was the loose skin at the left side of my neck started rippling in the wind (if you haven’t had it happen you don’t know what I mean). Initially it was an interesting feeling but it got sore after a while.

I got to their beltway (rt 100) and circled the city. Once I got to Rt 1 again I headed east towards Ontario. At one of the stoplights after making the turn someone in a beatup sedan chatted with me about my trip and destination. You know, lights are all that short so it was a brief conversation. After he pulled out though I noticed that he had police lights in his back window.

lots of construction, grooved roads. no pavement for a couple of km. arrive ignace at 6:15. reviewed path. going to sault ste. marie and probably toronto. i saw a jacknifed tractor trailer on the side of the road. it was starting to get a little muggy prior to brandon. black snakes, two bears on the side of the road. trailer on the side of the road on fire before the bears.

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Northern Ride – Day 12

August 19th
06:00-19:15

Fernie BC to Whitewood SA
1012 kilometers

I got packed up and out the door at 06:00. I stopped next door at the gas station to top off and was out of Fernie at 06:15.

I went down to Crowsnest Pass and discovered that it’s not a town but a couple of towns that are in Crowsnest Pass. I wanted to stop at the Triple S RV Sales (local Harley Dealer) but couldn’t find them.

I stopped at the Frank Slide historical stop. I read up on the event. They were mining for coal with the town of Frank in the pass. A limestone slab a kilometer wide broke loose and slide down the mountain in 100 seconds.

I continued on to to Lethbridge Harley-Davidson. The place was a few blocks off of the exit. It was largish but the folks were basically just standing around. I used the bathroom and checked out the shirts. I picked up an orange one with Alberta on the back. On the way out I passed another Lethbridge H-D. Maybe this was original shop or it’s the main shop or maybe it’s the service center.

Just past Medicine Hat I stopped in at the dealer there and snagged a liter of oil. I’d used about half of the quart and didn’t want to dig it out of my bag. I topped off the bike and then chatted with Rich who was coming from Montreal. He was doing 1000k days (about 650 miles) and thought I’d make it to Montreal on time since I did a 14 hour day yesterday.

I crossed over into Saskatchewan and stopped for gas. The old guy in front of me was paying for 71 liters of diesel. The place only had 87 octane but I needed a refill. She seemed to handle the lower octane with no problems.

I headed out and stopped in Swift Current for lunch. The old guy stopped by just as I was finishing up. He and his family were seated behind me. He commented that he had seen me at the last station and that I had shot by him after the stop. I said that I was on my way to Montreal. We chatted for a few minutes and then I put my tray away and headed next door. I snagged a soda from the store and called Rita. When I bailed I realized I hadn’t filled up and checked the tank. I was a bit over half full and figured I could make it with no problems.

I got about half way to Moose Jaw (Chaplin) and checked my tank. A bit less than a quarter of a tank. Time to start looking for a pump. At the next town (Parkbeg) the gas station was closed up and the pump was gone. For sale. This is not good.

The signs that lead up to the towns have symbols under them which indicate what services are available in the town. Mortlach showed eats and lodging but nothing about gas. I muttered to myself that they _had_ to have gas and turned off the road to check. Of course they didn’t have any pumps. I turned around and headed back to the main road and promptly died at the stop sign.

This is really not good. She started right up and I moved into traffic. 14 Km to Caronport. I wasn’t sure I was going to make that and prepared to pull off. The bike died on slow downs and down hills and caught again when speeding up or after it died (it rocked forward and back possibly sloshing gas into the EFI). I also rocked it side to side trying to get gas over the hump. I died and restarted for the next 14km. As I’m coming around a curve I can see a sign for a pump ahead. “Please don’t die within sight of a station.” I get to the left turn to get to the service road and don’t see any traffic coming from the other direction thank goodness. I went across and behind a white pickup headed to the station. As I got to the pump it died one more time and I coasted in.

By the way, she takes 17.372 liters of gas (although the dealer page says 18.9 liters) 🙂

I headed on my way patting lucky thanks.

I headed on to Moose Jaw. I really wanted to stop and get a Moose souvenir but decided against it. The place looked like a big tourist trap 🙂

From Moose Jaw I headed east until I got to Wolseley, my designated stop. Since it wasn’t that late I figured to continue on for a bit longer and finally stopped at 19:15 in Whitewood. The lady said she didn’t have any rooms with air conditioning. After a quick check it turns out she did have a room with AC. I unpacked my stuff and cranked the AC and watched the news.

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Northern Ride – Day 11

August 18th
06:00-20:15

Boise Id to Fernie BC
668 Miles

I got my gear packed up and on the bike and was on 89 west by 6am. I’m concerned about the trek through Canada since I’ve only tested the waters so far. A touch when I was a kid in Washington and a couple of years ago with Rita when we headed to Glacier National Park. We did a 10 mile run into Canada just to say we did it. Now I’m talking about travelling across several provinces and being in Montreal by Friday.

So I head north on 55. It’s fairly busy and there are quite a few houses out here. I stopped to check the maps since there are a couple of turns but I seem to be on the right road.

Before I get into the hills I stopped at a small place for breakfast. While waiting for my order I went out and snagged my chaps off of the bike and laid them out. I paid my bill and headed out again. I stopped again in a few minutes for a soda and to call Rita. After that stop I headed up into the mountains. Some time after that my chaps split apart again. I used a couple of small bungee cords to hold them together. Not too elegant but it works.

Rt 55 parallels the river coming out of the Cascade Reservoir. The ride up is quite cold. Eventually I stopped to put on my scarf to cut the cold a bit. The hills and countryside is beautiful and coming over the last hills to Rt 95 N in the sunlight was stunning.

I followed 95 north up to Lewiston. On my way up 95 after Lewiston I realized I was low on gas and started looking around for a station. I spied a sign that said gas 1/2 mile ahead in Potlatch. I made the right turn and found a small town but no pumps.

About half way down there was a sign for Gas pointing to the right. I found the pumps and filled up but with 87 octane. I took off my leathers and put them away. I pulled out and headed north again.

I pulled into Coeur d’Alane and stopped on the north side of town for lunch at 14:20.

After lunch I continued on up to Sandpoint and Bonners Ferry. At Bonners Ferry I checked the map book and called the Alberta Tourist line. Mainly I’m concerned about whether I can get in to Canada. I stopped by a bank to get some Canadian money but they only did that for their customers. The teller said that I could use my credit/debit card with no problem and probably get a better rate than from them.

Somewhat reassured I continued north until I got to Eastport. At the border crossing I chatted with the border guard. He said that two riders from Virginia had come through earlier that morning. I discussed where I worked and where I was going. I guess he was reassured a bit. I asked him about speed limits and he laughed. “Just multiply by 6 and you’ll be close enough. 100km * 6 is 600. Drop the zero and the limit is 60mph.” When I said I was trying to get to Montreal by Friday he said “what are you waiting for, better get going” and I was on my way.

I stopped at the Duty Free store and changed $20 into $25.26 Canadian. I put the US bills into the back and dropped my US change into my tank bag. For the next week I’ll be spending Canadian money.

I did a lot of looking around at the various signs. At one place I pulled in. There was a sign that said that this trash can was for tourist litter and not for use by the locals. I pitched my soda bottle and headed out. Unfortunately while accelerating I caught a yellowjacket in the crook of my arm. *Sting* *sting* what the heck? *sting* and I looked down and pitched him off. Man that hurt and was a bit of a shock.

I passed Yahk and followed Rt 3 out of Cranbrook east. I was trying to get to Crowsnest Pass but it was 20:15 and I only made it as far as Fernie so I stopped for the night.

I spoke to the lady at the desk of the motel and got my first taste of the Canadian accent including the “eh”. I asked about the weather channel. It seems that when I watch it in VA I don’t see anything about Canadian weather patterns. She said that she saw Canadian weather all the time when she watched.

When I went out to get my gear there was a hummingbird snacking on the plant next to the bike. He hummed off when I stepped out. I got all unpacked and covered the bike for the night. I went to the gas station next door (with a Dominoes in back) and picked up a soda and a snack. The young lady commented on the NASA debit card and we chatted for a minute about my trip and NASA. She also had the accent and said “eh”.

While watching Canadian TV I found that they have The Weather Network. I also watched some of their TV before going to bed.

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Northern Ride – Day 10

August 17th
Boise Id

We went to the zoo, Rita riding on the bike and Alanna riding with Jasmine. We took a look at the new exhibit (penguins) and how big some of the older ones were since we saw them last.

We bailed after a bit and did some riding around. At one point we headed up Bogus Basin Road. After the developed area we got into a nice twisty area, some of it very twisty. I was watching the road and peeking up ahead here and there. There were locusts here and there on the road. As we got farther and farther up the road, we started seeing more and more locusts in the road. Eventually I was getting concerned that we’d slide off the road and we stopped to look at the view.

We headed back for dinner and to hang out. When it was time to go, Devon and Alanna both wanted to try a ride on the back of the Harley. I told them that next time I’d be happy to give them rides around but that I’ll give them a ride around the neighborhood only if their feet could touch the pegs. Alanna had to tippy-toe and I let her slide a little since it was just in the housing area.

After that it was time go to. We headed back to the hotel and packed up. Rita’s flight was late the next morning but I was bailing at 6am.

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Northern Ride – Day 9

August 16th
Boise Id

We didn’t do much “touring”. We stopped by Dexter and Linda’s to visit and help with the birthday party.

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Northern Ride – Day 8

August 15th
04:45-11:55

Madison Campground, Yellowstone Wy to Boise Id
429 Miles

I got up and got all packed up. I rolled the bike down to the bottom of the hill. I started the bike and headed to the entrance of the campground. I pulled out my leather jacket and grabbed a soda from the machine. I also checked the time and found it to be 04:45 and not 05:45. I thought it was still rather dark for 06:00.

I was also short on gas. Normally I put gas in before settling in for the night but neglected to do it this time.

On my way out of Yellowstone I saw two yellow eyes at a fairly high level. I slowed down really quickly and discovered a Caribou on the left side of the road. As I went by I spied another one on the right side in the bushes. After that I kept my eyes peeled for more eyes.

Outside the west gate there is a town and an unattended self-serve gas station. I filled up and called Rita. After that I headed out of town and south on Rt 20. The road was still quite dark and they had 8′ tall reflectors on the sides of the road which did quite well in keeping me on the road and making sure I didn’t mistake them for eyes.

I followed 20 to 15 then to 86 and 84. Outside Boise I called Rita since it was getting close to her departure time of 2pm to let her know I was almost in Boise. We chatted for a couple of minutes and I headed on.

About 10 minutes later I pulled into the motel Rita had arranged. I checked in and then bailed. I’ve been in Boise before but I didn’t know where the Harley dealer was located. After wandering around a bit looking for a laundrymat and the dealer, I got back to the motel and checked out a map which gave me a better idea. I headed off again and went by a laundrymat. Perfect. I needed to wash clothes as well. I found Cycle Nuts and Bolts service shop. I stopped there and found that I was in the wrong place. The dealer was back about half a block. I turned around and parked. I went in and picked up my “pivot shirt”. The shirt at the farthest point in my trip.

I asked if they had a reference to someone who could help with my leathers. They said they could and gave me a card for Gypsy Ride Leathers. She said that the lady who worked there wasn’t always in. She also asked if I wanted a dealer pin. I turned her down but did ask for a sticker. She didn’t have one but she did have little “buttons”. A dime sized emblem they probably put on the bikes they sold. I gladly took that and put it in my pocket.

Let me explain the problem. I bought these chaps last year and wore them through the past winter. Towards the end of winter the left zipper separated. It was a bear to get the zipper back together but I finally did it. It did it a couple of more times until the end of the winter season. Either I got better or the zipper wore down further.

On the trip I brought them with me and used them once but they split again. I used a couple of the straps, one above the calf and one around the thigh to keep it together. I intended on contacting someone in Boise to put a new zipper on since I was going to be there for a couple of days.

On my way out of the dealer I called Gypsy Ride Leathers and fortunately she was there. She said that I just needed the zipper tuned on my chaps. So I headed back to the motel to get my chaps and headed back to see her. She was in behind a group of trailers which seemed to have a bunch of bikers living there. She put an anvil under the zipper and then took a pair of flat nosed pliers, opened them slighly and placed them over the zipper mechanism. She then took a hammer and whacked it a couple of times making it tighter. She waxed both sets of teeth and ran the zippers up and down. The left one split while she was waxing it so she replaced the mechanism with a new brass one. I also had her replace the right zipper head to have them match. I did some knee bends and general walking around and it seems to have worked. I paid her 11 bucks (3 each for the heads and 5 for knowing where to whack 🙂 and headed out.

I stopped by the laundrymat and washed my grungy clothes wearing my chaps the entire time with no problems. Excellent, the problem’s been fixed. I’m much happier. And I have clean clothes. More happiness. Finally I took a shower which I hadn’t gotten since I’d camped the past two days. Yea, I was pretty grungy too. I couldn’t wait until after 7 to eat so I hit 7/11 and grabbed a snack.

One thing I noticed. When I hung up the rain gear there was a burn through on the inside of the left pant cuff. I saw it a few days ago and today I connected one and one. Back in Indiana when I was under the overpass putting on my rain gear I had put the pants and jacket over the front of the bike. The plastic on the turn signal cover must have heated up when the pant leg was covering it and melted the cover and pant leg. There weren’t any black marks on the pipes and I was usually very careful since I’ve singed pants before.

Rita’s flight landed at 18:55 or so. At 7pm I headed over on the bike to see her and maybe pick her up. I pulled in to the airport lot and parked on one of the hashmark grids rather than taking a space. I went in looking for the flight. The only thing I knew was the approximate time she was supposed to be in. I thought she was coming from O’Hare but the only flight coming from there arrived after 10pm. There was a 7pm flight from Denver so I headed down the baggage pickup to see if she was there. While I was looking around she snuck up behind me. We collected her bags and headed up to the bike. I strapped her bag to the bike and put her backpack on backwards (on my front) and drove her over to the airport motel.

After getting her stuff put away we headed out to a mexican restaurant for dinner. We chatted about the trip so far and what I’d done since I got to Boise and then headed back to the motel.

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Northern Ride – Day 7

August 14th
07:30-17:09

Bald Mountain, Wy to Madison Campground, Yellowstone Wy
137 Miles

Since I was only a few hours from Yellowstone, my next stop, I lazed about and finally broke camp at 07:30. Again I was breathing heavily due to the height. On the way out there was a group of cows milling around the campground sign. As I went by they were scared a bit, probably by the sound of the big cow going by.

Not far down the road I found the entrance to The Medicine Wheel (Alternate info site). One of the sites I really wanted to see. I’d read about it in several different places since the late 70’s and never visited. I didn’t really know where it was until I started planning the trip.

I drove up the gravel road until I got to the parking lot. I parked the bike and locked/covered things. Of the gear I was carrying the only thing of real importance were the pictures in the camera and I had that with me. The other things could walk without being too much of a hardship (well, I’d be annoyed at losing the MP3 player but what are you going to do).

It’s a 1.5 mile hike to the site. There’s a road but that’s only for handicapped folks and they have to stop 1/4 of a mile before the site. They ask that we don’t disturb anyone that may be meditating.

The info says that most of the tribes treat this as a special site and regularly use it for meditation. Some people spend up to a year preparing for the journey.

The Wheel is almost 10,000 feet up on the shoulder of a mountain. On the next ridge is a FAA post for monitoring of flights in the area.

The view from the ridge that leads to the Wheel is spectacular. You can see 10,000 feet into the Bighorn valley on the one side and into the forest on the other. The site is surrounded by a fence and the admonition to only walk around the site to the left and to leave the offerings alone. There were lots of colorful bits of cloth, scarves and some larger pieces of cloth tied to the rope as well as other items in the circle.

I left the site and headed back to the bike.

When I got there, I saw a pick-up with a Native-American dressed up. His pickup had a Lost Cherokee sticker on it and the state plate was Missouri.

I rolled out, stopping once to let a SUV go by. The road was a bit narrow.

I headed down Rt 14A again and headed for the twistys. I boogied on down enjoying the view and ride. A couple of BMW’s were on my tail for part of it but they fell farther and farther behind. Finally I reached the flatlands and headed out to Lovell. The BMW’s finally caught up and blew by me. I just waved.

After Lovell I got on the wrong road and headed north. It wasn’t until I passed Deaver and saw the Montana 5 miles sign ahead. I stopped, called Rita to chat and then turned around and headed back to 14A and Garland.

I went down until I got to Cody. I cruised around a little, grabbed some lunch and headed out to Yellowstone.

There were quite a few bikers rolling around town. On my way out I encountered another group heading my way. I stayed back a little, again out of respect. When one of them hit his emergancy lights and pulled over I stopped and asked if he was ok. Apparently he was waiting on someone else and waved me off with thanks.

A bit later I saw them coming up behind me. I slid over to the right and waved them through so they could rejoin their group and again hung back.

At the east entrance I fell in behind them and then had to wait until they got their payments worked out. Most of them had Wisconson tags but the straggler had New York tags.

I paid my money and rolled on in. There was a fire on the side of the mountain, trees were on fire. There were rangers who kept everyone moving. At one point I saw a helicopter fly overhead with a big bucket heading for the small lake. At the next turn was a lake that was quite low. I’m guessing they were using that lake before to quench fires. From looking at the paper, they had just opened the east entrance of Yellowstone that morning.

So I hit the general store at the other end of the lake. I picked up some deet and some snacks and a soda. I headed up to the Canyon camping area but they were full. They made a reservation for me at the Madison campground and I headed over there. On an amusing point, a couple of guys seemed to be racing me to the campground.

Anyway, on the way over I saw several herds of Bison including one lone guy that was calmly eating on the side of the road. Imagine encountering that on a dark night.

I pulled into Madison (the sign said the site was full) and went up to the window. For $18 I was able to camp. It was hot but I was ready to take a couple of hour break. I went over to my site and set up my tent. I put my cover over my bike and cinched it down.

I sat on the park bench and started reading my book. Weirdly enough while I was sitting there my nose started bleeding. I lay back on the bench and let it stop.

Later it started to rain a bit so I threw on the rain fly. Man, the problem with that is that you’re sealed in. There don’t appear to be any vents in that thing. I had all the zippers open in the tent and the flys spread out hoping to catch a breeze but I had also tied everything together so it didn’t blow off in the night.

Unfortunately it stopped raining later on and started getting a bit warm in the tent. Since it still looked like rain I left the fly on. Of course that meant a little restless sleeping since I don’t like being too hot.

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Northern Ride – Day 6

August 13th
07:30-17:05

Rapid City SD to Bald Mountain WY
316 Miles

I packed up my gear and turned in the key. I asked about a breakfast place and was pointed to a Perkins Restaurant just down the road. I stopped in there and grabbed breakfast. Kind of a Denny’s sort of place.

Once done, I hit Rt 44 out of town and headed for Johnson Siding. The riding was pretty interesting if hot. I bypassed Silver City and headed north on 385 to Deadwood. The directions to Rt 14A were interesting and I headed up to Lead instead of Sturgis. I turned around and headed back east and to Rt 90.

I wandered down the main Sturgis road and didn’t see anything particularly interesting so I turned around and headed out of town and towards Wyoming. I had seen on the map that I was heading towards Devil’s Tower and decided to make the right on 111 in Wyoming and head over to the tower.

On the way over I got behind a group of 6 bikers. Out of respect I kept back but as we slowly rolled down towards the monument I got a bit annoyed and when I got a good spot to pass I bailed. With that I realized that a group of more than 3 bikers is much like an motor home. Large and slow and difficult to pass. Unfortunately it’s hard to pass a group since I don’t want to get myself stuck in the group and interfere with their riding style. Plus they don’t know how I ride.

So a ways down the road when I first saw Devil’s Tower I was surprised at its size. It’s much taller than I thought and really sticks out from a distance. I was thinking more of a fang than a tower.

The bikers had just gone by when I got my picture and put the camera away so I followed them some more and was able to pass them again.

When I got to the turn-off there was a small store on the corner. I stopped to get a shot and some gas but there wasn’t anyone around. I hopped on the bike and made the right turn into the access road and found a larger store and the biker group stopped there. I greeted them, checked out the store and snagged a couple of hot dogs for lunch. I hopped on the bike again and headed up to the park.

Again there were hundreds of prarie dogs that people had stopped to take pictures of. I kept going up to the tower and got off to check out the info desk and read about the climbers. I hadn’t realized people could not only climb the tower but do it pretty regularly. There’s a comment about not doing it in July but a different site had complaints and basically said that it’s our right to climb whenever we want.

On my way out I passed the biker group and waved. I got a wave and two head turns. I guess I pissed them off when I passed them twice 😉

I pulled out of the park and headed back to the main road and Sheridan. The ride north was pretty damned hot. I made an attempt to drive basically non-stop to Sheridan, feeling that I was stopping too many times and should consolidate my stops (pee, get soda, get gas). When I pulled into Sheridan I found an A&W and pulled in for a break. The sign at the bank said it was 106 degrees.

After refreshments I hopped on the bike and headed for Rt 14. I’d been seeing signs for a while saying I should take Rt 16 for a nicer ride, less twistys and a safer ride to Grand Teton’s and Yellowstone. Of course I like twistys and wanted to visit The Medicine Wheel so I had to ride on Rt 14.

I made the left and off I went.

The ride up the Bighorn Mountains got cool pretty fast. At the split for 14A and 14 I took the alternate route and stopped at a lodge. I picked up a soda and looked around. They didn’t have an ATM and I was down to 10 bucks. I hoped that camping here wasn’t going to cost more than 10.

I checked out the jewelry seeing something that I liked but didn’t know if Rita would like it. Since it was almost $200 I decided that if I got it for her and she didn’t like it, I’d be yelled at 😉 so I didn’t get it.

I headed up Rt 14A and finally stopped at the foot of Bald Mountain at a camping spot. I set up my tent breathing heavily due to the height, paid the $10 (woo-hoo) and got ready for bed. Unfortunately there were three kids playing in the woods. I was reading and looking out of the tent at them running by. Eventually they said “how long as the bike been there”. I guess they just realized I was camped there. They seemed a little considerate since they ran off towards their camping area.

The place was fenced off since there were free range cattle roaming around. In the night I heard the moos but I also heard some wacky animal sounds. I thought they might have been the Bighorn sheep or something. Later on I realized they were coming from the cows. I could almost make out the words “get out! they’re going to turn you into hamburger”. Maybe he was warning the other cows 🙂

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